Skiing a Minefield
Skiing in Bosnia this winter has been a bittersweet experience. Bitter because my hometown of SLC, UT was getting dumped on while I was away. Aside from powder-envy, my experience here has been nothing but stoke.
In 1984, Sarajevo was home to the winter Olympic Games. On the eve of the opening of the games, the mountains were bare. There was no way the downhill events were going to take place on the dirt trail outlined for the various events. Without snowmaking capabilities, the Muslims, Catholics, and Orthodox Christians all prayed a united prayer — they prayed for snow. Somehow, someway the snowgods heard their pleas and it went on to snow so that no event was canceled. Many have dubbed this the Sarajevo Miracle.
Skiing in Sarajevo has not changed much since those Olympics. The price of skiing is about the same and the mascot of the 1984 games can still be seen all over the town. Many of the ski facilities that were built specifically for the Olympics remain today with few if any repairs or updates, despite being having been subjected to a major war. In fact the Olympic venues of Igman and Bjelasnica were major battle areas that were heavily mined during the war. There are an estimated 900,000 mines that still splatter the Bosnian landscape. Many just on the edge of ski boundaries. This make for some very interesting backcountry touring, that requires a very experienced guide who can make sure you don’t get blown up. My guide and friend Dejan is just such a person to have around. In the last three weeks in Bosnia 6 people including mine experts have been killed by mines. The other Olympic mountain Jahorina was a Serb stronghold during the war. Several military facilities there were subjected to NATO bombings at the end of the war. The skeletal remains of these buildings provide a haunting reminder of the country’s recent past.
Like most of the chair lifts and hotels around the ski areas, the ski culture here is something reminiscent of the 1980s. Rad multicolored one pieces, skinny skies, and icey bumps are a favorite of many of the locals. This makes a perfect scene for anyone in search of fresh tracks. I’ve been 4 days late from a storm and have skied fresh tracks all day. For most here, powder is a chore, not a delight - the mindset seems crazy, but being at the receiving end of infinte pow, I’m not complaining.
Here are a few pics:
Serb military installment bombed out by NATO bombing campaign.
Cyrillic sign next to a pizzeria that does not serve pizza but which covered its walls with nudie pictures of Balkan women. Surprising in so many ways.
The most recent addition to Jahorina: a few boxes and rails. . . I’ve yet to see anyone hit any of them.
One of my favorite things about skiing here, is seeing capitalism at its best in this former socialist nation. At each of the lifts several vendors sell an assortment of items from soft drinks, energy drinks, candy bars, beer, shots of rakija, and plum brandy to gloves and goggles. One vendor even posts a sign that his plum brandy will not give you a head ache.
My buddy and guide Dejan. He has become a huge fan of Bluehouse. Notice the traditional Serbian pose.